Abastumani is a place that feels as if God and people created it together for peace of mind. A holiday here is one long stretch of relaxation, after which you want to live and create again. It is one of those places you keep wanting to come back to.
Abastumani at a glance: where it is and what it costs
- Where: southern Georgia, Adigeni district, 28 km from Akhaltsikhe and about 220 km from Tbilisi (roughly 4 hours by car). Altitude about 1,300 m.
- Known for: healing pine-forest air, hot sulfur pools, the astrophysical observatory and carved wooden dachas from the Romanov era.
- Sulfur pools: 20 GEL per hour, open from 8:00 to midnight.
- Observatory: daytime tour 20 GEL per person, night stargazing tour 40 GEL. Minimum charge per group 100 and 200 GEL. Georgian citizens pay half.
- How much time you need: the town itself takes a day. If you want the night tour at the telescope, stay at least a night or two: it only makes sense under a clear sky.
- When to go: the resort is open all year. Summer is best for the stars, and in autumn the forest around is beautiful.
Abastumani: a place for the body, the senses and the soul
The clean mountain air of Abastumani, full of the scent of herbs and pine, is famous for its healing properties and its ability to restore strength quickly after a long illness. That is why this beautiful spot became popular among residents of the Russian Empire very quickly, and a small resort village grew up here.
History of the Abastumani resort
Abastumani first appears in the records in the mid-19th century, when Dr A. A. Remmert, the chief military medical inspector of the Caucasus district, began developing two spa resorts: Abbas-Tuman (the future Abastumani) and the famous Borjomi.
A pleasant, mild and dry climate. No strong winds or sharp temperature swings. Plenty of sunshine all year round and, above all, dense coniferous forests. All of this defined the main specialty of the little resort: treating patients with lung diseases.
From 1864 a year-round military hospital operated in Abastumani. From 1898 the town’s mineral waters became available to everyone; there are three healing springs here. In Soviet times the resort grew even more: a tuberculosis hospital and a large bathhouse were built.
Abastumani today: what has changed in recent years
Ten years ago Abastumani looked almost abandoned: peeling dachas, closed sanatoriums, broken roads. Since 2019 the resort has had a development master plan, the state is investing heavily, and the town has changed a lot:
- about twenty historic dachas with carved balconies and verandas have been restored on the main Rustaveli Street;
- the central park, known locally as “Roshcha” (the Grove), has been renovated with new paths, lamps, benches, a fountain and playgrounds;
- the observatory has been restored, and in 2024 a new Austrian telescope was installed there;
- the Soviet cable car from 1982 has been restored, although it only carries observatory staff;
- new water supply and sewerage systems have been built;
- one of the public sulfur pools has been renovated, with changing rooms and showers;
- on the Kutaisi side, a new asphalt road now runs through Baghdati to the Zekari Pass.
Next to the restored dachas you will still see dilapidated ones, and this contrast between old and new is part of Abastumani’s atmosphere.
Abastumani on the map of Georgia
Abastumani lies in southern Georgia, in the Adigeni district. At an altitude of about 1,300 m above sea level, it sits on the southern slope of the Meskheti Range. Around the resort stretches the picturesque gorge of the small Otskhe river, which separates Abastumani from the noise of civilization.
How to get to Abastumani
Abastumani is off the main highways, and the easiest way is through Akhaltsikhe: from there it is 28 km of asphalt to the resort, about 45 minutes.
By car
From Tbilisi the drive takes about 4 hours: along the highway to Khashuri, then through Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe and on to Abastumani. The road is paved, a regular car is enough. If you don’t have a car, it is easy to rent one in Georgia.
There is also a shorter route from Kutaisi, through Baghdati and the Zekari Pass (about 2,200 m). A new asphalt road now goes up to the pass, but the descent to Abastumani is rough mountain track, better done in a 4×4. The pass is only open in summer, so check the road condition before you go.
By marshrutka
Marshrutka minibuses run often to Akhaltsikhe from Tbilisi (Didube bus station) and from Borjomi. From Akhaltsikhe bus station, marshrutkas leave for Abastumani several times a day; the ride takes about 45 minutes. In summer there are also direct services from Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi, usually once a day; check the times locally.
By taxi
Taxi drivers usually wait near the bus station in Akhaltsikhe. You can agree with one to drive you to Abastumani, wait and bring you back. This is a convenient way to do a day trip, especially if you want to go up to the observatory.
From Batumi, the easiest way is to get to Akhaltsikhe first and then continue as described above.
Things to do in Abastumani
The whole town is about 5 km long. Essentially it is one long paved road running through Abastumani from the south to the north of the resort. On both sides you see local houses with carved verandas, small half-abandoned sanatoriums, sights and other buildings.
Whether because the population is only about a thousand people, or because there are no big crowds of tourists, life in Abastumani is calm and unhurried at any time of year. It has absorbed some Russian and Georgian flavour and feels a bit like a village: simple and slightly lazy at the same time.
It is best to start exploring from the northern part of town, so that at the end of the walk you can reward yourself with the sulfur baths. Walking down is also easier than up, since the southern part of town sits a little higher than the northern part. But let’s take it step by step.
Romanov Palace
After a sip of water from a natural spring, you can see the palace of Tsarevich George, son of Emperor Alexander III and younger brother of Nicholas II. Suffering from tuberculosis, he settled in Abastumani, and the town became a place often visited by the royal family.
The palace was once damaged by fire, but it has been restored. Today it stands on the grounds of the convent of St Panteleimon and is closed to visitors; you can only see it from the outside.
Roshcha Park and New Zarzma Church
Moving slowly from north to south, you reach the centre of town with a small but very pretty pine park called “Roshcha” (the Grove). It is the main place to relax for locals and tourists: there are rides, cafés and horse riding. The park was recently renovated with new paths, lamps and a fountain.
Opposite the park stands the small New Zarzma church, the Church of St Alexander Nevsky, built on the orders of Tsarevich George. The Russian painter Mikhail Nesterov worked on its frescoes, which gives the church a special, soulful atmosphere.
Heading further south you see more modern buildings: Soviet apartment blocks surrounded by greenery and propped up against the pine forest. Among them are small cosy grill houses, and the smell of grilled meat spreads all around. After a juicy fresh shashlik you can continue your walk. If you want to sit in a good restaurant, try IFANI on Rustaveli Street.
Further on you will see former health resorts, most of them abandoned, like islands of a past civilization among the greenery. Once they were open all year round and treated people from across the Soviet Union.
Abastumani sulfur pools
One such place still works: the public sulfur pools next to the old building of the Royal Baths. The water is hot, about 40–48 degrees, with a strong smell of sulfur. It has long been used for problems with joints and the musculoskeletal system, the nervous system and the skin. Of course, one bath won’t cure existing health problems, but you can feel much better.
One of the pools was recently renovated, with changing rooms and showers. An hour of bathing costs 20 GEL, open daily from 8:00 to midnight. Bring your own towel, flip-flops and drinking water. Don’t stay in the hot water too long: several short dips with breaks are better.
That is how in just one day you can get a taste of the charm of the small Georgian town of Abastumani. But if you want to stay longer, there is plenty to do on the other days too.
Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory
One of the brightest experiences is the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory. It opened in 1932 as the first high-altitude observatory in the USSR, and it still works today. It stands on Mount Kanobili above the town.
There is a cable car to the observatory, but it only carries staff. Visitors go up by car or taxi, about 20 minutes on a narrow winding road through the forest, or on foot along a marked trail from the lower cable car station.
You can’t walk around the grounds without a tour. During the day they show the museum and the old telescopes, but the highlight is the night tour: through a real telescope you look at the Moon with all its craters, at planets and stars.
Tour prices for international visitors:
- daytime tour — 20 GEL per person, minimum 100 GEL per group; starts at 11:00 and ends at 17:00–19:00 depending on the season;
- night tour — 40 GEL per person, minimum 200 GEL per group; starts at 19:00–21:00, also depending on the season.
Georgian citizens pay half, children under 7 go free. There are no tours on public holidays. Before you go, it’s best to call and check whether a tour is running on your day: phone numbers and schedules are on the observatory website.
Hiking trails and Tamar Fortress
About 30 km of marked hiking trails run through the pine forest around Abastumani. One leads to the observatory, another to the ruins of the medieval Tamar Fortress on the ridge above the southern part of town.
Where to stay in Abastumani
There are no sanatoriums with medical treatment in Abastumani in the usual sense: people come for the air, forest walks and the sulfur pools. There aren’t many hotels, and in summer many Georgian families come here for weeks, so book accommodation for the season in advance.
Cottage Galileo: cottages in the forest
My favourite in Abastumani. I stayed there and loved it. These are four two-storey cottages right in the pine forest, with a fully equipped kitchen and an outdoor pool you can use in the warm season. Silence all around and the smell of pine: a great place for couples and families who want to hide from the bustle.
A few tips: you have to leave the car about 200 metres from the cottages and walk along a forest path; there are no signs to the hotel, so arrange in advance to meet the manager. Food can be delivered right to your cottage. Guest rating on Booking is 8.8.
Booking: Cottage Galileo in Abastumani. I wrote more about the cottages in the article on the best hotels in the mountains of Georgia.
Eikon Apartments: apartments next to the sulfur pools
A new building with modern apartments, each with its own kitchen and balcony. It stands next to the sulfur pools, and the IFANI restaurant is on the ground floor. Guest rating on Booking is 9.7.
Booking: Eikon Apartments Abastumani.
Other options are guesthouses, rooms and small hotels; the easiest way to browse them is on Booking. You can also rent a room or a house from locals: hosts often cook for guests themselves, kharcho soup, shashlik, khinkali, and serve their own wine. More about local dishes in the article on Georgian cuisine.
The photo gallery below gives you a visual feel of Abastumani.
Abastumani
Abastumani FAQ
Are there sanatoriums in Abastumani?
There are no working sanatoriums with medical treatment. People come to the resort for the mountain pine air, walks and the hot sulfur pools.
How much does an observatory tour cost?
For international visitors 20 GEL during the day and 40 GEL at night per person, with a minimum charge per group of 100 and 200 GEL. Georgian citizens pay half.
Can you take the cable car up to the observatory?
No, the cable car only carries staff. Visitors go by car or taxi, or walk up the trail.
How do I get to Abastumani without a car?
Take a marshrutka to Akhaltsikhe; from there marshrutkas run to Abastumani several times a day, the ride takes about 45 minutes.
When is the best time to visit Abastumani?
The resort is open all year. Summer is best for stargazing, autumn for the beautiful forest.
Also nearby: Vardzia, Akhaltsikhe, Borjomi.
See also: Tbilisi Airport.
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I am Victor, the founder of this site and its main, but not the only author.
Traveler and photographer. Visited more than 60 countries.
Born and raised in Batumi. I love to travel in Georgia.
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