Kakheti: What to See in 1–2 Days and How to Get There from Tbilisi

Kakheti is one of the best-known regions of Georgia. It is the country’s main wine region, the home of Sighnaghi, the “city of love”, and a land of ancient churches and monasteries. Almost every corner of it has something interesting to see. In this article I have put the main sights of Kakheti together into one route. It is especially useful if you travel around Georgia by car or plan to rent a car.

Kakheti in brief:

• Where it is: the east of Georgia, 1.5–2 hours by car from Tbilisi. The capital of Kakheti is Telavi.
• What to see: Sighnaghi and Bodbe Monastery, Telavi and Tsinandali, Gremi, Alaverdi, Nekresi, the Khareba wine tunnel. David Gareja Monastery is also in Kakheti.
• How many days: you can see the main sights in 1 day by car or on a tour, but 2 days is better.
• When to go: September is best, for Rtveli – the grape harvest. In a hot year the harvest starts as early as late August.

Kakheti on the map of Georgia

Kakheti lies east of Tbilisi and is quite a large region by Georgian standards. In the north it borders Russia, and in the south it cuts like a wedge into Azerbaijan. The Alazani Valley, famous for its vineyards and views of the Caucasus Mountains, stretches right below Sighnaghi. The capital of Kakheti is Telavi, and the other towns of the region are Sighnaghi, Kvareli, Gurjaani, Sagarejo, Lagodekhi, Akhmeta and Dedoplistskaro.

I have marked all the places from this article on my map: churches and monasteries are red crosses, fortresses are black towers, museums are blue, wineries are purple wine glasses, hotels are orange beds, nature is turquoise trees. Click an icon to see a short description.

How to get from Tbilisi to Kakheti

• By car – the most convenient option: the sights are spread across the region, and with your own car you can travel at your own pace. Sighnaghi is about 120 km away via Sagarejo. To Telavi you can drive over the Gombori Pass – the road is shorter, but it is a mountain road with hairpin bends.
• By marshrutka (minibus) – minibuses to Kakheti leave from the bus station at Samgori metro: to Sighnaghi, Telavi, Kvareli, Sagarejo and Gurjaani. Minibuses to Lagodekhi leave from Isani metro. More details in the article about Tbilisi bus stations. Minibuses will get you to the towns, but getting around the sights themselves this way is inconvenient.
• With a driver or on a tour – if you don’t want to drive yourself.

Kakheti attractions

Kakheti is a large region in the east of Georgia, famous for its mountains, valleys and wine, and it is rich in sights. Getting to know it properly would take several weeks, but most travelers are short of time, so this route is designed for two or three days, depending on your transport and how deep you want to dive into the local culture. It is easiest to start from Tbilisi and come back there – the route is a loop. Head for Sagarejo first.

Ninotsminda Monastery

Ninotsminda is one of the oldest churches in Georgia. It was built in the 6th century and almost survived to our days, but collapsed in the middle of the 19th century. The altar part of the cathedral and the eastern wall are still standing, and in places you can see 16th-century frescoes. Today the ruins of the church are inside an active convent surrounded by a massive stone wall.

How to get there:

• By car from Tbilisi to the village of Ninotsminda on the outskirts of Sagarejo. The monastery is on the left side of the highway.
• By minibus from Samgori metro station going to Sagarejo or Sighnaghi.
• On a tour to Kakheti.

The monastery has no official opening hours, you can enter at any time. But it is better to come in daylight. Entrance is free.

Sighnaghi

The town is shaped like an “octopus”: the center is formed by the main squares (Solomon Dodashvili Square and David the Builder Square), and streets run out from them in different directions.

Sights of Sighnaghi:

1. St. George’s Church – the largest and best-known church in town.
2. St. Stephen’s Church – the tallest in town. Through its courtyard you can climb a tower with a viewing platform.
3. The Sighnaghi fortress wall – about 4 km long, with towers and gates. It offers beautiful views of the Alazani Valley.
4. The local history museum.
5. Wine shops (“Pheasant’s Tears” on Baratashvili Street and the winery of Joni Okruashvili on Chavchavadze Street).
6. The wedding house. It used to work around the clock, now it is open from Wednesday to Sunday, closed on Monday and Tuesday.

How to get to Sighnaghi:

• By car from Tbilisi, about 120 km.
• By minibus from Samgori metro.
• On a tour.

Read more here: Sighnaghi – a little Europe in the heart of Georgia

Bodbe Monastery

Bodbe Monastery is two kilometers from Sighnaghi, and you can walk there from town. This is where St. Nino spent her last years, died and was buried. A church was built over her grave (it has not survived), and over time a monastery grew up next to it. Today St. George’s Cathedral stands in place of the lost church. Right behind it there is a viewing platform overlooking the Alazani Valley, and a path starts down to the holy spring. Entrance to the monastery is free. The path to the spring closes earlier than the monastery, so it is better to come in the first half of the day. Parking at the monastery is paid.

Wine museum in Velistsikhe

This one is for wine lovers.

Kakheti is famous for its wine, so being here and not visiting a single winery would be a real miss. There are many wineries and wine shops in the region – you could easily spend a few days on a separate wine tour. For this route I picked the best ones based on reviews, popularity, the choice of wines and prices. The Numisi wine museum is one of them.

This interesting project is located in the center of the village in a large stone house. There is a gallery with household items and many old tools for making wine, and an old marani with qvevri buried in the floor. Next to it is a 16th–17th-century cellar where meat used to be stored. The only wines here are Saperavi and Rkatsiteli (dry and semi-dry), but they are good quality and made in qvevri.

It is better to arrange your visit in advance.

Lake Kvareli and the viewpoint of Kvareli Lake Resort

If you want beautiful photos of the Alazani Valley, stop by the Kvareli Lake Resort hotel next to Lake Kvareli. It has a viewing platform with gorgeous views of the valley and the lake, and you can also rest a little and swim. According to reviews, the hotel has a good restaurant where you can have a tasty and inexpensive lunch before moving on.

Kvareli

People come to this town for the following sights:

1. Kvareli Fortress, 18th century.
2. The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, late 19th century.
3. The Ilia Chavchavadze House Museum. His house has only one floor, but a large marani and a garden. Next to it there is a museum building in an avant-garde style. The museum is closed on Mondays.
4. “Kindzmarauli Corporation” – another winery with tours and tastings.

How to get to Kvareli from Tbilisi:

• by minibus from Samgori metro station;
• by car;
• on a tour.

Khareba

This place is interesting not only for wine lovers. It is an unusual winery: it is located in tunnels under a mountain, and they are more than 7 km long.

The unique tunnel in solid granite was built in 1950. Today it belongs to the large wine company Khareba, which has been making different wines and grape seed oil since 2004. About 25,000 bottles of wine are stored here at the same time.

The winery grounds are large, green and very well kept. There is also a restaurant, and from its upper floors you get a stunning view of the Alazani Valley.

How to get there – the Khareba winery is 2.5 km from Kvareli. It is easy to reach by car. Without a car, you can take a minibus from Tbilisi to Kvareli and walk from there. Address: Meurneoba District, 383320 Kvareli, Kakheti, Georgia.

The winery is open every day, but out of season it may close earlier.

A tour of the tunnel without tasting costs 10 GEL, with tasting – from 35 GEL. There are also more expensive programs, up to 100 GEL: with baking Kakhetian bread, making churchkhela and a feast.

Graneli winery

It is next to the Khareba tunnel. Graneli was founded in the 1990s and is now one of the largest wine companies in Georgia. It makes several wines, chacha and brandy. Tours and tastings are available here too.

How to find it – 2.5 km from the center of Kvareli, next to the Khareba winery.

Nekresi Monastery

Not far from Kvareli, high on a mountain, stands Nekresi – an active monastery founded in the 6th century. There was once a town here, but today only a few buildings of the church complex remain:

• the Church of the Holy Virgin, 8th century;
• part of the bishop’s palace with a 15th-century tower attached to it (now a utility building);
• a small 4th-century church;
• a square 9th-century church.

Nekresi is a very quiet and peaceful place. Its terraces offer panoramic views of the valley.

How to get there – drive 7 km from Kvareli towards Gremi. By car, turn right; by minibus, get off and walk 2–3 kilometers to the monastery checkpoint. There is a car park, and you cannot drive any further. Then you either walk up the mountain or take the shuttle minibus for 3 GEL, which runs about every half hour. The walk up is very hard, but on the way, from the viewing platform, you can see the remains of the foundations of the ancient town of Nekresi.

Entrance to the monastery itself is free.

Gremi

Gremi is the calling card of Kakheti. It was built in the early 16th century and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti and the residence of its kings. But a hundred years later the town was destroyed. Only the Church of the Archangels and the bell tower survived, surrounded by a low wall. Inside the church you can see 16th-century wall paintings. Unfortunately, they also show traces of vandalism – some of them were damaged by the spears of Persian invaders, and some by Russian soldiers in the 19th century.

There is a museum next to the church. A ticket costs 10 GEL and includes climbing the tower, which offers great views of the mountains and valleys. The church itself and the grounds are free. The museum is closed on Mondays.

How to get there – Gremi is right next to the road, 20 km from Telavi and 16 km from Kvareli. You can get here by car or by minibus from these towns. The museum hours depend on the season, so it is better not to come in the evening.

Alaverdi Monastery

The majestic Alaverdi is the cathedral of Kakheti, built in the first half of the 11th century. It is also called St. George’s Cathedral and is part of a monastery complex. It is the main and most revered church in the region. It is about 50 m tall – the second tallest in Georgia. The cathedral has suffered from earthquakes and invasions many times, but it has always been restored. Today it is an active monastery with the church, living quarters and a wine cellar behind a stone wall. Most of the grounds are closed to tourists – you can only enter the cathedral, where frescoes from different periods have survived. Entrance is free. The monastery is being restored, so part of the grounds may be closed.

In summer, when the weather is clear, Alaverdi looks especially proud and majestic against the Kakhetian mountains.

How to get there – the cathedral is 9 km off the Telavi–Akhmeta road, 20 km from Telavi and 17 km from Akhmeta. It is easy to get here by car. By public transport you can come from Telavi by minibus or by taxi.

Telavi – the capital of Kakheti

Telavi is the largest town in Kakheti and a convenient base for trips around the region: Alaverdi, Gremi and Tsinandali are all close. In the town itself, visit the Batonis Tsikhe fortress with the palace of King Erekle II, walk around Nadikvari Park with its view of the Alazani Valley, and be sure to see the famous plane tree.

The Telavi plane tree stands in the center of town, next to the Batonis Tsikhe fortress. It is about 900 years old and is considered one of the oldest trees in Georgia. It is about 40 meters tall, and it takes about ten people holding hands to hug its trunk. In 2016 the tree started to dry out, and it was saved by German specialists from Biberach, Telavi’s twin town. There is a belief that if people stand around the plane tree in a circle and make one wish together, it will come true. Next to it there is a small viewing platform overlooking the town and the valley.

Minibuses run from Tbilisi to Telavi, and from Telavi you can travel around the area.

Tsinandali

9 km from Telavi is the estate of the Chavchavadze princes in Tsinandali: a house museum, a large old park and a wine cellar. A ticket to the museum and the cellar costs 10 GEL, with a glass of wine – 12 GEL, and a tasting of five wines and chacha – 35 GEL. The museum is closed on Mondays.

The estate is connected with Alexander Chavchavadze – a poet and general who is considered one of the first Georgian winemakers to make wine the European way: this is where the famous dry white Tsinandali wine was first made. The cellar (enoteca) holds a huge collection of wines, including an 1841 Saperavi – the oldest bottled wine in Georgia. In 1854 the estate was raided by Shamil’s troops, and it has been restored since 2007: today there is a large, well-kept park with century-old trees, a museum, a hotel and, in summer, an international music festival. Pushkin, Lermontov, Griboyedov and Dumas were guests of the Chavchavadze family here.

I wrote in detail about Kakhetian wines themselves – Saperavi, Kindzmarauli, Rkatsiteli – in my article about Georgian wines.

Ikalto Monastery

Ikalto is one of the first monasteries in Georgia, founded in the middle of the 6th century. Almost nothing is left from that time – the surviving buildings date from no earlier than the 8th century. Today you can see the remains of three churches (the Church of the Holy Spirit, the Church of the Holy Trinity and the Church of the Dormition), utility buildings and the ruins of the Academy.

How to get there:

• By car – 10 km from Telavi towards Akhmeta to Ikalto, 13 km from Alaverdi.
• By minibus from Telavi to the village of Ikalto and then on foot to the monastery.

New and Old Shuamta

From Ikalto to the Shuamta churches it is only a couple of kilometers, but through gorges and across a river. It is safer to take the usual road around.

Old Shuamta is a monastery complex in the Gombori Mountains. The exact date of construction is unknown, roughly the 4th–6th centuries. It was abandoned in the 16th century. Three churches have survived to this day – a 5th-century basilica, a large cross-domed church and a small domed church, both from the 6th century.

An interesting fact: the name “Shuamta” was used by Soviet winemakers for a dry white wine. It was made from a special white Kakhetian grape using the old Kakhetian method – the wine was fermented on the skins. Today this wine exists only in wine literature – no winery has revived it yet.

New Shuamta is a monastery not far from Old Shuamta, built in the 16th century by Queen Tinatin, who is also buried here. Today it is an active convent, so entry is only with permission. If the gate is closed, ring the bell and someone will open it. You can only visit the church, where 16th–17th-century frescoes have survived, including a portrait of Tinatin.

How to get there – on the Telavi road, 7 km from Telavi, there is a big sign to Shuamta, it is hard to miss. If you are coming from Tbilisi, the turn is 5.5 km after the bridge over the Turdo. By public transport, take the Telavi–Tbilisi minibus that goes over the Gombori ridge (check this at the bus station, not all minibuses take this road) and get off at the sign. From the turn you will have to walk.

What else to see in Kakheti

If you have more than two days in Kakheti or want to leave the main route, here are more places worth the trip.

Pirosmani Museum in Mirzaani

The painter Niko Pirosmani was born in the village of Mirzaani, about 22 km from Sighnaghi. His house museum is here: an old wooden house with furniture of that time, farm buildings and an exhibition hall with original paintings. I came here on a tour myself. The museum is currently closed for reconstruction, so check whether it has reopened before you go.

All Saints Church in Gurjaani

Kvelatsminda is an 8th–9th-century church in the forest above Gurjaani. It is unique because it has two identical domes – the only such church in Georgia. A short forest path leads from the parking lot to the church. Gurjaani is easy to combine with a trip to Sighnaghi or Telavi.

Ujarma Fortress and the Gombori Pass

If you drive from Tbilisi to Telavi over the Gombori Pass, stop at Ujarma Fortress on the way, about 40 km from Tbilisi. It was once a residence of Georgian kings, and today its massive walls, towers and a church still stand on a hill above the Iori River. There is an entrance fee. The road over the pass itself is very scenic: forest, hairpin bends and honey sold by the roadside.

Lagodekhi National Park

The oldest nature reserve in Georgia, founded in 1912 on the slopes of the Caucasus near the border with Azerbaijan. There are several trails, and the most popular one leads to the Ninoskhevi waterfall (Shavi Kurdgela), about 40 meters high: it takes 4–6 hours on foot there and back. The park visitor center is right in the town of Lagodekhi – they give you a map there and tell you which trails are in what condition.

Kvetera Fortress

A medieval fortress town in the forest near Akhmeta: walls with towers, the ruins of a palace and a small 10th-century church. There are almost no tourists here, and the last couple of hundred meters you have to walk uphill – cars are left below.

Lake Lopota

A lake in the north of the Alazani Valley, about 25 km from Telavi. Today it is above all the Lopota Lake Resort & Spa with swimming pools, a spa, fishing and walks – a good choice if you want not only to tour monasteries but also to relax for a couple of days.

Where to stay in Kakheti

For a 2-day trip, the most convenient places to spend the night are Sighnaghi or Telavi: Sighnaghi has many cozy guesthouses, and from Telavi it is close to Alaverdi, Gremi and Tsinandali. During the grape harvest good places get booked quickly, so it is better to book in advance. The table lists hotels on Booking with high ratings and many reviews, from inexpensive guesthouses to more upscale hotels.

Hotel	Where	Booking rating	Why stay here
Budget
Guest House Pirosmani 60	Sighnaghi	9.5 (480+)	An inexpensive guesthouse in Sighnaghi
Lia’s Guest House	Sighnaghi	9.4 (280+)	A family guesthouse in Sighnaghi
Mid-range
Communal Hotel Telavi	Telavi	9.3 (540+)	A hotel in Telavi – a convenient base for trips around Kakheti
Boutique Hotel Kviria	Telavi	9.6 (280+)	A small boutique hotel in Telavi
Upscale (two more upscale options – Tsinandali Estate and Schuchmann – are in the list of winery hotels below)
Lopota Lake Resort & Spa	by Lake Lopota, near Telavi	9.4 (3,300+)	A resort hotel on the shore of Lake Lopota

Winery hotels in Kakheti

If you are coming to Kakheti for the wine, the best place to stay is right at a winery: a tasting in the cellar in the evening, a view of the vineyards in the morning, and you can buy the wine you liked on the spot. Almost every good winery here has its own hotel or cottages. I picked seven options with a Booking rating above 8 and many reviews – from small family maranis to a historic estate.

Winery hotel	Where	Booking rating	The wine	Prices
Tsinandali Estate	Tsinandali	9.4 (700+)	The historic winery of the Chavchavadze estate: a 19th-century enoteca, tastings, walks in the vineyards	high
Vazisubani Estate	Vazisubani, near Gurjaani	9.6 (160+)	An 1891 estate with its own vineyards, qvevri wine: Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Kisi	high
Château Mosmieri	Kisiskhevi, near Telavi	9.1 (520+)	Its own wine from the vineyards around the hotel, tastings, a swimming pool	mid-range
Schuchmann Wines Château	Kisiskhevi, near Telavi	8.6 (940+)	A winery with wines from Napareuli, Tsinandali and Kindzmarauli, some of them made in qvevri, and a wine spa	mid-range and above
Babaneuris Marani	Babaneuri, near Alaverdi	9.7 (240+)	A family winery: the owner shows you the qvevri cellar himself and pours his own wine	mid-range
Chubini Winery & Cabins	Shilda, near Kvareli	9.5 (370+)	A small family winery, natural qvevri wine, cabins and a pool	mid-range
Shaverge	Shilda, near Kvareli	9.7 (130+)	A family marani with qvevri, its own farm and home-cooked food, cottages with a pool	below average

I also recommend a very unusual hotel, Qvevrebi: its rooms are made in the shape of huge qvevri – the clay jars in which Georgian wine is made. I stayed in one of these jars: it is cozy inside, and from the bed you can see the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains, especially beautiful at sunset. If you are going to Kakheti, it is definitely worth staying here for a night or two.

Tours to Kakheti from Tbilisi

If you are not ready to travel around Kakheti on your own for several days, a tour is the best way to get to know the region. In one day you can see the most interesting places, and a guide will tell you much more about the history of the region. The simplest and cheapest option is a group tour to Kakheti.

When to go to Kakheti

The main festival of Kakheti is Rtveli – the grape harvest and winemaking. Kakheti is one of the first regions in Georgia to start the harvest; in Imereti and Racha the grapes are picked later. The exact dates depend on the weather every year. Usually the harvest starts in late August or early September, and in a hot year it can begin as early as mid-August. The peak is in September, and the season can last until mid-October. If you want to be sure to catch Rtveli, come in September. The vineyards are especially beautiful at this time, and in the villages and wineries you can see how grapes are pressed. But at any other time of the year these scenic places, old monasteries and churches will not leave you indifferent either!

Kakheti FAQ

Where is Kakheti?
In the east of Georgia, east of Tbilisi. In the north the region borders Russia, in the south and east – Azerbaijan.

What is the capital of Kakheti?
Telavi.

How long does it take to get from Tbilisi to Kakheti?
Sighnaghi is about 120 km away, roughly 1.5–2 hours by car. To Telavi you can drive over the Gombori Pass.

How many days do you need for Kakheti?
You can see the main sights in 1 day, but for a relaxed trip with wine tastings and a night in Sighnaghi or Telavi, 2 days is better.

More places to visit and useful information:

The best hotels in the mountains of Georgia

Top 15 attractions in Georgia

Where to book a hotel in Georgia