Racha Georgia
Racha is a historical region in Georgia and a magic word for many tourists! Surrounded by mountains on all sides, with its own special color, and truly beautiful at any time of the year, Racha is a must-see place during a visit to Georgia.
Geography of Racha
Racha is located in the modern region of Racha-Lechkhumi and Lower Svaneti. It is separated from Svaneti to the north by the Lechkhumi Range, from Imereti to the south by the Racha Range, and from Russia by the Main Caucasus Range.
There is a conditional division into Upper and Lower Racha. The main cities of Upper Racha are Oni and Shovi. Upper Racha borders Russia (North Ossetia) and is favorable for visiting only in season. Therefore, I will write mainly about Lower Racha, which can be visited at any time of the year. In summer it is dry and hot, in winter it is rainy, snow rarely falls and almost never lingers.
Sights of Racha and Lechkhumi
To avoid confusion, I will first describe the main natural and cultural attractions, and then give you a sample itinerary so that you can cover them all in one, two or three days.
Mountain of 9 Crosses (Tskhradzvari) and the abandoned Tkibuli cable car
This is a place with a stunning view that is definitely worth a visit! Actually, translated from Georgian, “Tskhradzhvari” means “9 crosses”.
This is a very popular place among tourists, which Georgians themselves consider sacred. According to legend, all the boys born in one family did not live to adulthood. The Almighty gave a sign: a dove. It landed on the top of the mountain, and it was decided to build a church there. And only after that did the curse cease to work.
The crosses installed now are not historical, they were put up in the last century. But despite this, pilgrims come here, overcoming the road through the forest from the parking lot. Large buses cannot go up the mountain, so some tourists walk for more than an hour one way!
By car or minibus, everything is much simpler. You drive to a parking lot next to the upper station of the abandoned cable car. There, a breathtaking view unfolds!
But the main adventure lies ahead. From there, you walk through the forest. The path is full of roots and becomes extremely slippery in wet weather. Part of the route is made up of stairs, but not all the steps are present. The final stretch of the mountain is a steep ascent along roots, with chains fastened on the side.
My family and I were there in a thick fog, it was very wet. But even in such weather, the mystery and energy of this place took our breath away. And in clear weather, there is a gorgeous view of the Tkibuli reservoir and the valley. Moreover, you can see almost all of Western Georgia! And this will be your reward for overcoming a difficult path.
The cable car led to a sanatorium that existed here in Soviet times. Unfortunately, only parts of the foundation remain. And the steps of the upper cable car station now go straight into the cliff.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Tkibuli (Kutaisi) to Ambrolauri. Up to the left there is a perfect concrete road, there is a sign. From the highway to the parking lot it takes 7-8 minutes.
Shaori Reservoir (Lake Shaori)
This artificial reservoir was formed in 1955, when the Shaorskaya hydroelectric power station was built. Now that nature has become accustomed to it, it seems that this lake has always been here.
There are not many lakes in Georgia, so Shaori is attractive to tourists. The lake is about 7 by 3 kilometers in size, located at an altitude of more than a kilometer. The highway leading from Kutaisi to Racha crosses it in a rather narrow place. And from the bridge there is an amazing view of Shaori! Especially in late autumn, when the colorful foliage is reflected in the waters of the lake, and behind it you can see the snow-capped mountain peaks. In recent years, many cottages and hotels have been built on Shaori, where you can stay overnight.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Tkibuli (Kutaisi) to Ambrolauri. The road crosses the lake.
Pillars (columns) of Sairme
This natural landmark has been formed for thousands of years. Its main creators were erosion and time. As a result, stone columns of various shapes were obtained.
There is a sign from the road to them, a few years ago they made an amazing road and parking lot. There is also a pedestrian path with recreation areas, leading from the parking lot directly to the foot of the pillars. You won’t be able to walk between them, but you can enjoy the majestic view.
If you come on a hot day or are limited in time, you can simply admire the columns from the parking lot. The path to the foot of the mountain gains altitude, it is not easy to walk, and the view at its end is not much better than the view from afar.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Ambrolauri, on reaching Alpana, turn right up, there is a sign. It takes about 3 minutes to get to the parking lot, it will be on the right.
Gvirishi Waterfall
This waterfall is a little off the beaten track, but it’s definitely worth a visit!
Its height is over 50 meters, and to be impressed, there are two viewing points. There is a gorgeous glass platform on top, which even those who are afraid of heights can go to.
The view is amazing! You can park 1-2 cars nearby. If you are tired, this point is enough.
If you still have some strength left, you can walk a little down the road and then go down the stairs to the foot of the waterfall. The view is decent, but from above it is more “wow!”. You can’t park your car next to the stairs, you can leave it a little lower: there is a small platform about 50 meters from the bottom to the beginning of the descent.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Alpana towards Tvishi along the Rioni River, turn right up, there is a sign. The good road will quickly end, a dirt road will go through a small village, then there will be a very broken dirt road leading along a construction site. But this will not last long, then good asphalt begins. From the highway to the waterfall it is a 10-15 minute drive.
Lailashi Pool
This is one of the most Instagrammable places in the entire region. The pool, built in the village of Lailashi, offers a breathtaking view of the mountains.
Everyone still calls it the “Secret Pool”, although it has long been on all maps and guidebooks. This has its pros and cons. Pros – a great road, in the season there is a cafe nearby. Cons – to take a classic photo on the edge, you need to arrive at 6 am, because in the season there are dozens of people here.
Local children love to jump into the pool with a running start, splashing everything around. The pool is not cleaned, but spring water flows through it. It is worth stopping by on the way, in any case. First of all, because of the view of the mountains, the hydroelectric power station and the Lajanur reservoir. There is also a synagogue in this village.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Alpana to Tsageri, turn right back and up, there is a sign. There is a decent climb from the highway to the pool, it takes 10-15 minutes.
Mount Khvamli
This mountain is shrouded in the mysteries of many legends. According to one of them, Prometheus was chained here. According to another, the tomb of St. George was here. According to a third, ancient royal treasures were hidden here. And according to a fourth, a huge sea anchor was found here! I am not sure about the veracity of each of these legends, but I guarantee stunning views, both from the mountain itself and from the ascent to it.
Important!
You can only climb the mountain by car from June to mid-October. During the border period, you should check the weather forecast and avoid going there in the rain.
Despite the fact that a few years ago a good concrete road was laid here, the slopes are very steep and can be unsafe. If you are planning to climb Khvamli, allow some extra time – it takes more than an hour to walk from the parking lot to the observation point.
My friends and I drove 2/3 of the way up in an SUV with winter tires in early November and got stuck in the snow, there was no road further. However, there were fantastic views from there too!
Many people write that you can go up in summer in any car, no problems. Partly so. But it is very difficult to go down! Take care of your brake pads and make several stops for 10-15 minutes during the descent.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Tsageri towards Tskaltubo, turn left onto the bridge, there is a sign. In 15 kilometers you will gain about 1.5 kilometers in height. You will find slopes of 16% and even 26%.
Rachuli Waterfall
This waterfall is located very close to the turnoff to Mount Khvamli, near the village of Isunderi.
Already near the highway you will see a powerful stream of water flying out of the pipe. There is a very fresh concrete road leading up, along which you can drive up by car and leave it very close to the waterfall.
The best time to visit is early spring or late autumn, when there are few leaves here, and the waterfall is visible in all its power. Unlike Gvirishi, where the water falls in one step, Rachuli is almost a cascade waterfall. There is a narrow path along which you can approach several sites for the best photos.
How to get there:
Drive along the highway from Tsageri towards Tskaltubo, turn right, there is a sign. Drive along the concrete road for about 2-3 minutes, passing the houses. You will definitely not pass by, a powerful waterfall will definitely open up to your eyes.
Nikortsminda
Nikortsminda Cathedral is one of the main attractions of all Georgia. Its copy is in the Miniature Park in Shekvetili next to the most iconic buildings.
The temple was built at the very beginning of the 11th century, which means it is already more than 1000 years old! Much of what we see now appeared later. For example, the frescoes for which many value the cathedral adorned the walls of the temple during the restoration in the 16th century, and the bell tower was built in the 19th.
There is a separate article about this temple on our website.
Ambrolauri
This is the capital of the entire region. The city is a transport hub: the roads to Tkibuli, Oni and Tsageri converge here. The largest number of hotels and guesthouses are also concentrated here.
Unlike Kutaisi or Tbilisi, this is a very young city: it was founded in the 17th century. In appearance, it is, to some extent, more of a European city than a Georgian one: quiet, neat and small. Its population is about two thousand people.
Perhaps the main attraction of the city is a huge monument to the Khvanchkara bottle. This famous wine is named after the village, which is located 15 kilometers from Ambrolauri.
Not far from the monument is a factory where the legendary wine was produced in the Soviet years. At the factory, you can not only buy the signature wine, but also take a tour, learn the history of wine and see both ancient and modern tools for wine production.
Khvanchkara
You probably already know that many types of wine are named after the village where they are grown. The same is true for Khvanchkara: the wine is named after the village where the grapes grow. The grape varieties are called Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli.
By the way, the name “Khvanchkara” is Soviet. It was given instead of “Kipiani”, which the wine received from the surname of the princes who produced it. There are a huge number of wineries in the area. I will recommend you the best one:
Actually, my assessment is confirmed by the 5.0 rating on Google. The owner Kakha has a huge experience, a fine taste and a huge heart. His wine Mujuretuli won my heart, although I am not a big fan of red. Be sure to drop by Kakha for a tasting.
Racha from Tbilisi and Batumi
As you have already understood, Racha has a lot of interesting places scattered in different places. And it is quite difficult to see them without a car. Therefore, I recommend going there by car. If you do not have your own, no problem: you can rent a car that is convenient for you.
How to get to Racha from Tbilisi?
You are driving along the highway to Batumi. First you pass the Rikoti Pass through numerous tunnels, pass the town of Zestafoni and, before reaching Kutaisi, turn to Tkibuli. It was from this mining town that the cable car to the Mountain of Nine Crosses used to go. This road will take you to Ambrolauri.
How to get to Racha from Batumi?
First, on the Tbilisi highway, you pass Kutaisi, and then turn to Tkibuli. In addition, you can get to Tkibuli via Kutaisi.
Racha, what to see in 1 or 2 days?
I passed all the described sights several times in one day, spending the night in Kutaisi or Tskhaltubo. It turns out tight, “galloping through Europe”, with an early rise. It is much better to stretch it out with taste, at least with one night. If you are traveling from Tbilisi or Batumi, and then want to return back, then an overnight stay is simply necessary, otherwise you will not have time. So, the route I recommend is a kind of circle with small branches, which I suggest to overcome counterclockwise. The sequence will be as follows:
1- Mount Tskhrajvari
2- Shaori Reservoir
3- Nikortsminda Cathedral
4- Ambrolauri
5- Khvanchakara
6- Sairme Pillars
7- Gvirishi Waterfall
8- Lailashi Pool
9- Mount Khvamli
10- Rachuli Waterfall
You can spend the night in the Ambrolauri area. Then on the first day you will see Tskhrajvari, the Shaori reservoir and Nikortsminda, and on the second day – Khvanchkara, the Sairme pillars, a pool and two waterfalls. If you want to climb Khvamli, then plan another overnight stay, for example, in the Tsageri area. If you want to see all the sights of Racha in one day, then you can spend the night in Kutaisi or Tskaltubo. As I wrote above, even in winter it is possible to go around everything in a short daylight hours.
What to see in Racha in 2 days?
If you have some time to spare, I suggest a few more points along the route where you can stop and enjoy the amazing views.
Temples in Lailashi
If you stop by Lailashi to swim in the pool, then take the time to see other attractions of this small village. There are also ruins of an Armenian temple from the century before last, and the Church of St. George, and even a synagogue from the same period! About 80 years ago, a unique 10th century Torah scroll was found in the synagogue – the “Lailashi Bible”, and locals attributed miraculous properties to it.
Orbeliani Fortress
This fortress is an ancient defensive structure that has preserved elements of medieval fortress architecture. It served as an important strategic point for the defense of the region’s territory. Today, the fortress attracts tourists with its unique historical atmosphere and stunning views of the surrounding landscapes. You will see it right from the road.
Viewing platform in Tsageri
This site is located right on the road, before reaching the town of Tsageri. Picturesque views open up to both valleys, which are divided by the pass. Moreover, you can enjoy the view even from the parking lot, which is located right next to the road. But you can also climb even higher along a small but rather steep staircase, which will lead to a special site with benches and handrails.
Ofitara Waterfall
This waterfall is much less impressive than Rachuli, but it is located right next to the road, you definitely won’t miss it.
Waterfall of Love in Ambrolauri
The Sikvaruli waterfall (which means “Love”) is located in the town of Ambrolauri, and you won’t have to change your route much to visit it. Behind the water jets there is a small heart-shaped cave, which gave the waterfall its romantic name.
Lajanur reservoir
Driving from Lailashi along the highway towards Tsageri, you will not pass by the reservoir and the hydroelectric power station. The road next to the Lajanura River bed, which gave the reservoir and hydroelectric power station its name, passes through amazingly beautiful tunnels cut right into the rock!
Racha, where to stay
In Racha, over the past few years, a huge number of different hotels and guest houses have opened, designed for a variety of tastes. I offer you the Top 5 places from which you will truly enjoy!
- Gentry House
Authentic guest house built of wood using old technologies, stunning mountain views and great hosts. A combo of coziness and comfort! The rating of 10 out of 10 based on over 30 reviews speaks for itself.
- Ramona
A cozy secluded cottage with amazing hosts and a postcard view from the panoramic windows.
- Elsesi Racha Glamping
There is also a popular glamping destination in Racha – here you can stay in cozy comfortable tents with all the amenities: hot water, air conditioning, additional heaters.
- Forest Side Gogolati
A conveniently located, cozy house with hosts who will allow you to experience all the Georgian hospitality for yourself.
- Brotseulebi
This is a hotel in Ambrolauri, run by a very friendly and welcoming owner. Amazing mountain views, convenient location and affectionate cats on the hotel grounds)
Racha, what to bring with you
The two main Racha souvenirs that tourists bring to their loved ones are edible. The first is, of course, wine. First of all, these are the famous semi-sweet Khvanchkara and Tvishi.
The second is smoked pork leg, which is called Racha ham. Many compare it to Spanish jamon. Recently, ham has become very widespread, and you can buy it not only in Racha itself, but also in many stores in the main cities of Georgia.
I am sure that this region will win your heart just as it did mine! Have a great trip, friends.
My name is Vitaly Kibitlevsky, I am a tour guide and creator of unique quests in Batumi. If you want to walk around the city with a fascinating storyteller or plunge into an exciting adventure, write to the mail: vitkibit@gmail.com
Find out more about me and my projects here